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Little Known Questions About Geyser Installation.

In this article I will certainly define the common basic requirements of a sound, contemporary high pressure, straight installation. The following summary associates to a modern-day high pressure (400/600Kpa) system typically made by Kwikot South Africa.



Much less common are old reduced pressure systems (100kpa) open pipeline or "Latco" type systems. Realize that the parts are NOT compatible between both unique systems - High stress and Reduced stress! It is feasible to eliminate an old reduced pressure system and change it with a modern high stress system however - you purchase a new high pressure hot spring and install it according to the present spec.



The hot spring sits in a tray made of plastic (usually red) or tin plate. I favor the plastic ones.

Since June 2001, the drip tray is not optional - its obtained to be there and also there has to be a drain pipe for it! The drainpipe is a 50mm PVC waste pipe that drains pipes the tray by piping the water out your house. I have actually seen many drip trays mounted without drains! If your installment pre-dates June 2001 you may intend to obtain a plumber to consider it.

What Does Geyser Installation Do?

The following most recognizable function would certainly be the. These are small brass components placed at the end of a 30cm length of pipeline. Both vacuum cleaner breakers stand up and down about 30cm over the hot spring. These are necessary, as they quit water siphoning out the geyser when the cold supply is stopped.

It can be said that this is the primary feature, yet I don't see it thus. Bear in mind that vacuum cleaner breakers are a reasonably brand-new need - there are still countless old HP systems around without vacuum cleaner breakers as well as I am yet to see one collapse. Even if I have not seen it does not suggest it's not happening however! It is also extra likely to occur in a multi-story structure due to the fact that the siphon can draw an extra effective vacuum.

The chilly water side is the side that straight connects to the drain dick and also goes into the hot spring at check this the base. After the shut down valve you would normally discover a Stress Control Valve (PCV). There are a number of different kinds, mostly constructed from brass yet some try this out are made from plastic.

This is where the PCV releases stress and also this is the pipeline that usually leaks. Do not stress if you can not locate the PCV alongside the geyser - it might be installed up to 10 metres away, often in a more obtainable put on a wall outside. Often it remains in a little plastic box exterior.

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This shutoff should have a steel (copper or steel) pipe linked to it and also the pipeline need to lead straight out the structure. This air vent pipe is a crucial safety feature of the entire system.

The T&P valve is the least optional part - it needs to exist! - The weight of the geyser must be sufficiently supported on the roofing system trusses - a minimum of 2 assistances under the 'feet' of other the geyser. If it looks unsteady get a plumber to inspect it out.

This was not a demand on old geysers, but it is currently and it's worth fitting one. The hot spring has to be earthed! I have actually seen lots of hot springs with the earth wire unconnected. All the copper pipes should likewise be earthed and bound to the geyser planet. This is not a trivial precaution! Get a qualified electrician to check your installment if the bonding is missing or looks dodgy.


Once again, these are often just left existing next to the geyser. There are essentially just two main thermostat types - the modern-day round "Kwiktherm" in newer Kwikot geysers and also the VK (rectangle-shaped block) key in older hot springs and also in some newer non-Kwikot systems. The geyser may be fed (chilly water) with polcop (plastic) pipeline - approximately the shut down shutoff, however the pipe into as well as out of the hot spring should be copper or galvanized steel.

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The warm water side must be copper, steel or appropriately ranked (70) plastic or composite pipe. Keep in mind that you should contend the very least 1m of copper/steel pipeline out the hot spring - you might not connect plastic (composite) pipeline directly to the hot spring. As above, the PCV and T&P have to be made of copper or steel - especially the vent out of the T&P shutoff.



I have seen a number of installations where the installer has merely run a brief length of 22mm copper right into the drip tray with the idea being that the T&P can air vent straight right into the drip tray. A suggestion because the warm (100 +) water/steam thaws the drip tray and the PVC drainpipe pipeline.

The PCV is usually above the hot spring and also the chilly water flows down right into the geyser. This is rather vital due to the fact that it develops an anti-syphon loophole that protects against the geyser from draining pipes back through the inlet in the event of a water failure. If you fume water appearing your cool taps when the supply of water falls short then this is not functioning correctly.

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